Harrar Ethiopia

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Harar is one of the principal tourist destinations along the famous historical route through Ethiopia. It is located in South Eastern Ethiopia about 526 km from Addis Abeba and is among those cities in Africa that enjoy a mild climate throughout the year, which makes it immediately attractive to the contemporary tourist. The well-known 19 th century traveller, Sir Richard Burton, who was the first European visitor to enter what he called the “forbidden city”, left us a vivid picture of his memorable ten days:
“The ancient metropolis of a once mighty race, the only permanent settlement in Eastern Africa, the reported seat of Muslim learning, a walled city of stone houses possessing its independent chief, its peculiar population, its unknown language and its own coinage; the emporium of the coffee trade and the head quarters of the slave trade and the great manufacture of cotton cloths, amply it appeared deserved the trouble of exploration.”
Perched on a gentle hill, drained by a network of rivers, still Harar is, to all appearances, an ancient walled city. It was founded a millennium ago, between the 7 th and 9 th century, by Semitic-speaking people. At least seven settlements are mentioned as the precursors of Harar according to a popular legend. These were Esshkani gey, Fereka gey, Hararwe gey, Hassen gey, Ruhuk gey, Sammit gey and Tuhkun gey. All these sites are now awaiting archaeological excavation, exept Hassen gey, which still keeps the name north of Harar. These settlements resolved their enmity and agreed to establish their centre in Harar.
Despite this legend related to the foundation of Harar, however, Sheikh Abadir, the “patron of the city”, comes first when the name Harar is mentioned. He is said to come with his entourage in the 10 th century from Arabia. It is believed that he was the one who organized the administrative system of the city and also gave Harar its name. With its 82 Mosques and uncountable shrines, the walled city of Harar is considered the “4 th holiest city of Islam”, after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. Moreover, it is referred to as “madinat al-awliya”, the city of saints, due to its density of saintly places, which protect the city from unknown evils.
Harar had fertile soil with abundant water to establish a sustainable effective and efficient agriculture system. Using terracing and irrigation as well as intercropping, which are useful for tropical soil and a symbiotically correct practice, the Harari farmers were able to produce grain and cash crops in adequate supplies for local consumption and export. It is considered as the original domestic centre of the world famous “Coffee Arabica” and the mild stimulant leaf called chat (catha adulis). Both are lucrative export items, which provide the Ethiopian economy with substantial financial resources. Both are also consumed socially and are a binding force for social peace and coherence. Due to its altitude Harar was being free from the common tropical diseases, such as malaria, which are rampant in the surrounding lowland, and still, Harar is safe from mosquito attacks.
Harar was not dependent exclusively on agriculture, but also benefited from caravan trade, since it was geographically an entrepot of extensive trade between the Red Sea and the vast Ethiopian hinterland. To facilitate the international trade of those days, Harar had to mint its own coinage. In the whole of the Ethiopian region, it was the second centre after Axum to produce coins.
This broad and stable economic base helped Harar to become one of the leading centres of learning in the Horn of Africa and to develop a unique urban culture which was uninterrupted through centuries. The shift of the capital city of Adal state from Dakar to the city of Harar in 1520 brought about the heyday of Harar. The new capital became the springboard for Imam Ahmed, commonly known as Gragn, the left-handed, to incorporate the Horn of Africa. However, the leading role of Harar did not last long. After the wars of Gragn, Harar was exposed to frequent attacks from different sides.
Emir Nur built the remarkable defensive wall popularly known as jugal. This wall warmly engulfs the city which is confined within 48 hectares and 362 narrow lanes. The wall encircles the city with five traditional gates, which are named according to vicinities of the surrounding tribes. These gates are Asmadin Beri, Asum Beri, Argob Beri, Bedro Beri and Suqutat Beri and they demarcate the administrative as well as the socio-zones of the old city. The attentive observer will find many holes, penetrating the wall. They are called waraba nudule, holes of the hyena, since their purpose is not only to let the rainwater getting out of the city, but they are used by the hyenas to enter Harar by night and clean it from any litter. The wall gives a sense of direction and belonging to the Harari. It defines the major cultural texture of the holistic fabric of the Harari. The wall continues to be of great significance to the city dwellers, since without it the link with the social and cultural environment would be missing.
After its heyday as the centre of the mighty Adal state, Harar gradually declined and became a small city-state ruled by the Ibn Dawd dynasty from 1647-1875. The occupying force of Egypt interrupted the rule of the dynasty between 1875 and 1885. The gates that had been closed to European travellers were wide open during the Egyptian occupation. The last Amir Abdullahi took over the mantle of power for less than two years, but was defeated by Menelik at the battle of Chellenqo in 1887.
Thereafter Harar was incorporated into greater Ethiopia, which was then in the process of formation. Although it lost its independence, Harar remained one of the most important economic centres of the new state under Emperor Menelik. During the Italian Fascist invasion and occupation in 1935, Harar expanded greatly and is now quite often referred as “the greater Harar”. The Italians destroyed the western farmland and established their administrative headquarters, called Botega, without affecting the old city. Today Harar is the administrative centre of the smallest regional state, the Harari Peoples National Regional State and home to many different nationalities.
Harar evolved its own, unique social organisation based on Ahlil (kinship), marignat/ ghelnat (male/ female friendship) and afocha (community association). This social organisation of Harar is governed by gey ada, the culture of Harar, and communicated through a unique language known as gey sinan, the language of the city. The hala mahal, or etiquette of the city, is a binding force which enhances the urban culture.
Most of all Harari women play an indispensable role in the survival of Harari identity. Their socio-economic dynamics are immeasurable. They dominate the market scene. They give a lively atmosphere to major social occasions such as weddings and mourning and many other ritual practices. They also shoulder the responsibility of the preservation of the colourful traditional costume and the making of the city’s renowned basketry. There can be few places better known for the quality of baskets. Basketry plays a major role in Harari society. Basket making is taught in their early years so that girls will know basic city etiquette while learning, at the same time, how to stitch a coil of grass to produce a very intricate basket for different social functions. Generally there are about 20 types and different sizes for different purposes: they have social functions as well serve as wall decoration, where every type has its own specific place. There are several production centres recently established by women associations. Tourists can visit some of these centres and observe the production techniques of these world famous Harari baskets.
Within easy walking distance one can transcend both space and time, to travel into a medieval reality of winding narrow lanes with an abundance of mosques and shrines which perpetually enchant its visitor as well its residents. In contrast, wide asphalt roads and concrete buildings characterize the modern quarter. To start with, the walled city is a talking mirror that reflects the images of the past as well of the contemporary city. Within easy distance many attracting sites could be discovered to quench the thirst of the curious tourists.
Within the wall you may be first arrive at faraz megala, the old horse market, where you face the imposing octagonal Cathedral of Mehane Alem, which contains a gallery of traditional religious works. From the central place in Harar you can reach the central market, through mäkina girgir, a busy historical street, which got its name from the sirring sound of numerous sewing machines. On your way you pass by gey hamburti, the navel of the city, where according to the legend Amir Nur got his inspiration to build the wall. Reaching the market in the centre of the city, gidir megala, you are confronted with its colourful customers mainly from the rural surroundings during the afternoon. From this central place you have all choices to continue your stroll in every direction of the five gates.
Going back mäkina girgir, and turning a right alley you will find the house of Ras Tafari, the later Emperor Haile Selassie who was raised in Harar and build this house during his reign. Nearby the Rimbeau Museum is situated, a house dedicated to the famous French poet Arthur Rimbeau, who lived in Harar, for 10 years between 1881 to 1891. The museum serves as a centre of documentation, craft work, for exhibitions and for teaching the French language. It displays a collection of old photographs and has a huge collection of research papers about Harar.
Following a lane to the north you will face the central Jugla Hospital. From here you may take the road down to Assumberi where the shrine of Amir Nur is located, a Harari leader who reigned between 1551 and 1567 A.D. and is well known for the building of the wall. Going back in the direction to faraz megala is the Regional Museum inside the main building of the Regional Bureau of Culture. Here we encounter general items from the older and larger administrative region of Harar.
From the Regional Museum take a walk to the gate of Argob Beri, where are you encountering the two white washed minarets of the Friday Mosque. Just behind to the left a coffee factory is to be found, where you could purchase fresh coffee. Close by you find the Catholic Church of the French Capuchin Mission. Going back to the main road further down, you come across the Ada Gar or cultural house, a Harari Community Museum dealing with a typical Harari household lifestyle. The main building, especially the living room with the five raised platforms and basket work and wooden bowls has a lot to tell. Each and every corner, including the different niches, can be associated with social and symbolic functions.
Passing further down, on the left side another mosque is located named Din Agobani, after a big stone, which was formerly known as a strategically observation place for the surrounding of Harar. Similarly, you will be astonished by the picturesque panorama of the countryside.
Coming to the gate of Argob Beri, you will face one of the biggest markets for chat in Harar. Following the road outside the wall you pass by a shrine, where a spectacular performance takes place, a special particularity of Harar, the feeding of the hyenas. These wild animals, which are known as scavengers of the city but could easily be taken as domesticated animals, are subjects of many legends concerning the old relationship between humankind and the animal. The feeding is performed every evening outside the wall. To attend it is an experience that binds the attendance with Harar forever.
Continuing your walk around the wall you will soon face Suqutat Beri, which historical gate is still existent besides the main entrance. Climbing up the asphalt road, on the left you will find the house of Abdallah Sharif, who runs a private museum, rich in many archaeological, historical and anthropological items, carrying the heritage of the city and it’s surrounding. His major treasure is his collection of old handwritten books, which he also repairs by traditional methods of Harari bookbinding. Continuing ascending to the central market you may take the left lane to loose yourself in the labyrinth of valley of Suqutat Beri and Bedro Beri. Reaching the wall again you may discover the shrine of Abadir, the founder, patron and 2 nd Amir of Harar.

Coming back to the central market, you may come across the reconciliation lane, margarraw wiger, which got its name, because it is so narrow, that two passers-by have to touch each other. Otherwise you may visit the manufacturing centre of traditional silverware within the market, which produces necklaces, earrings and other items of interest.
Moreover, fascinating spots could be visited outside the wall. You may visit the traditional stone villages of the Argobba people, Kurumi and Umardin, which are located 25 km away from Harar. On your way you pass by the shrine of Aw Sofi, where under a tree the first Coranic School was established, as well as further.



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